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Author Topic: Spider Mites for Dummies  (Read 4382 times)
Darkhorse

Posts: 841



« Reply #15 on: October 14, 2009, 11:14:06 AM »

More deaths to report, sadly...


Night Runner, Delta Dawn, High Voltage, Medicine Man all defoliated and wouldn't come back.  Chariots of Fire, Blueberry Thrill and Acapulco Gold are hanging in the balance.

Good news is that Wakeup Spray and Supernova saved Island Girl and Devil's Eye.  I still have a small infestation (compared to what it was) and am imspecting plants twice daily for signs.  We will prevail!!!

**the battle continues**


P.S. I have a regimen now and it really seems to be working, I promise I will explain it, but only when all the mites are dead!!!

edit- cat stepped on keyboard and posted for me, hehe
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"They who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who dream only by night."  -Edgar Allan Poe
Charlie
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Posts: 2869



« Reply #16 on: October 14, 2009, 03:14:57 PM »

Ugh! That's bad news, indeed. Were these casualties of the oil treatment mainly? I ask because mites rarely kill a hibiscus by themselves.

Anyway, I'm glad to hear that you have a regimen going that appears to be doing the job. They are the worst of pests! Good luck with the remaining strugglers.

Charlie
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Darkhorse

Posts: 841



« Reply #17 on: October 14, 2009, 07:27:59 PM »

Well, what's happening is that the plants will completely defoliate and won't come back, despite the Supernova and Wake Up Spray.  I will treat them and treat them, checking to see if they are alive on the inside, and they will die within a month or two.  All the oil guys died a long time ago.  It seems that once a hib is completely defoliated, 80% of the time it will die.  Those are the results I've been getting, anyway.
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"They who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who dream only by night."  -Edgar Allan Poe
Nievesgirl

Posts: 927


« Reply #18 on: October 15, 2009, 04:43:47 PM »

Well, what's happening is that the plants will completely defoliate and won't come back, despite the Supernova and Wake Up Spray.  I will treat them and treat them, checking to see if they are alive on the inside, and they will die within a month or two.  All the oil guys died a long time ago.  It seems that once a hib is completely defoliated, 80% of the time it will die.  Those are the results I've been getting, anyway.

Jordan sorry to hear that about your hibiscus Sad I hope you get rid of thes pests. I dipped my plants again and so far so good but I am still waiting to make sure they are gone.
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~Kerry~
Charlie
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Posts: 2869



« Reply #19 on: October 16, 2009, 05:35:49 AM »

Thanks for clarifying that, Jordan. Thinking back I don't think I have seen many hibiscus completely defoliate because of mites and that is probably the difference. Complete defoliation would be more of a stressor to the plant. I'm not sure what to advise in that case. Obviously, stopping the mite attack before it reaches that level would be best but I know how rapidly they establish themselves in the hot weather. I wish we could offer one of the more effective miticides but our government has decided otherwise...

Cleaning up all fallen leaves during a mite attack is important. They lay eggs on the leaves, which then fall off, and if left lying on the potting mix they can scamper back onto the plant after they hatch on the fallen leaf.

Good luck with the current regime and let us know how it goes.

Charlie
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Darkhorse

Posts: 841



« Reply #20 on: January 07, 2010, 07:19:34 PM »

OK!!!!!  I have been avoiding this topic for quite some time because I really didn't have any great new developments.  Finally, I do!  I have finally come up with a system that seems to work without stressing the plants too much, and without having to dunk them. 

Warning:  My treatment involves lots of showering with your plants.  Any spouse or roommate will consider you completely strange.  Ignore them.  It also involves showering every day, so if you're not already doing that..... well you should be lol.  You can replace the shower step with a garden hose/bug blaster step if you have a yard and it's warm outside, although it seems easier to clean the plant thoroughly if you're sitting right there with it getting soaked yourself...  also warm water may be more helpful than cool.

Another warning:  If you take really hot showers, don't.  Warm showers are perfect.  I wouldn't take a shower over 100 degrees F during this process.




Step 1:  So here goes.  Place your plants into groups as small as possible, no more than seven groups.  Separate these groups from each other as much as you can.  For large collections, you may have to shower 2x a day.  Hey, if you couldn't get a date before, maybe now?  Just don't tell them that you're showering with your plants and that's why you smell better than normal.

Step 2:  Designate a group 1, 2, 3... all the way to 7.  Keep up with who's who!  You will need to wash off each group 1x a week.

Step 3:  On day 1, place all of group one in the shower.  THOROUGHLY wash each plant.  The tops of the leaves, the underside of the leaves, the bark, the dirt, the pot... this works best if you have one of those shower heads that you can take off the wall.  I didn't have one of these, though.  If you don't, you will have to GENTLY flip over each and every one of the plant's leaves to make sure you wash every inch of the plant.  Be careful flipping the leaves.  Some cv's are less "bendy" than others, and you'll end up tearing or ripping off the leaf. 

Step 4:  Once each plant in the shower is extremely clean, gently shake the plants over the tub to remove excess water.  Now you wait for a few hours, until all the water has evaporated from the plant's surface.  The bathroom fan (a.k.a. fart fan for some of you) helps because it removes excess humidity from the room.  I noticed my plants drying much faster when I left the fan on. 

Step 5:  Have LOTS of Bayer 3:1 on hand, and wear a respirator.  Spray every inch of the washed plants later on in the day once they're dry.  The label says don't spray until dripping... on some occasions I had to and the plants were fine.  Do spray as little as possible though, and don't be a dummy and dump the Bayer on the plant.  No, I didn't do that myself, but it's one of those disclaimers like "do not operate hairdryer while in bathtub...."



So now you're pretty much done with group 1 for now.  You will need to do group 2 tomorrow, etc.  Start with group 1 again on the same day the following week.  The Bayer 3:1 is somewhat systemic as it absorbs into leaves, but certainly won't last forever so DO NOT SLACK OFF!  You will need to do this for at least 4 weeks.  I did it for 6 before I saw no more signs of mites.  Check for mites as often as possible, too. 

If plants start to look chlorotic due to the nutes being washed out of the pot so often, water them in-between washings as much as possible (without leaving the soil drenched) with H2O containing HVH fert, booster, and SuperNova.

The sad news is that by the time I figured this out, I had gone from 35+ plants down to 13 survivors.  So sad.  Sad  The good news is that I am spider mite free and have been for over a month and a half!

Also, it would be wise to do this with any new plants coming in, at least for 2 weeks just to be safe.  And QUARANTINE QUARANTINE QUARANTINE for a month if possible!!!  You don't want to end up with a mite infestation as bad as mine was.

Good luck!
JL     


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"They who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who dream only by night."  -Edgar Allan Poe
LJG

Posts: 78


« Reply #21 on: January 07, 2010, 11:48:31 PM »

Mites are a pain for any plant grower in a greenhouse or home. I grow rare palms in my greenhouse. Once big enough I plant out here in San Diego in my garden. It was really a never-ending battle with these damn bugs. I have recently started ripping out my old Hibiscus plants and buying the more colorful ones from places like HVH for use as companion plants in my garden. Since I grow all my hibiscus in the ground, I have found it best to take Charlie's 6/8 inch pots and grow them up into 3 gallon plants first. Putting his hibiscus straight in the ground really caused some establishment issues. However ones I root into 3 gallon pots and plant out, take off fast. So in the winter I do this in the greenhouse and of course found out that mites love hibiscus too. So I feel the pain.

Anyway, the point I am getting at is over the years of trial and error I have finally just realized only Miticides kill mites. The combo I use is Avid (contact killer with slight systemic properties) to kill adults and Ovid (egg killer) to stop their development or to stop any possible Avid resistant mites from multiplying. Since I went to this approach I have cut my mite problems down to where they are almost non-existent.
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helixturnhelix
Seattle, WA

Posts: 1632



« Reply #22 on: January 08, 2010, 09:11:28 AM »

I think I am having a mite problem, right after I got rid of these white flies.  I am seeing alot of yellowing leaves, so I think i might have to get some miticides.  Thanks for the suggestions guys Smiley
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Charlie
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Posts: 2869



« Reply #23 on: January 09, 2010, 06:47:25 AM »

LOL! Jordan, you're mite adventures are very amusing! I'm glad you found a way that works for you. It takes real dedication to be that disciplined!!

I wish we had a better miticide for you than Bayers 3-in-1. As LIG noted, only miticides really kill mites. Oil will smother them if it hits them directly but oil is stressful to leaves as Jordan also found out when using it too strong. Washing the plants works, as Cindy and Jordan have discovered, but is time consuming! The miticide LIG uses, Avid, is a standard for commercial growers but in California and most states is not available without some sort of pesticide applicator's permit. If you google it online you will find a couple of places in states with minimal regulations that will ship it to you - if memory serves rose care sites and african violet care sites is where I've seen it. Unfortunately, it is very expensive but the amount you get - pints or quarts usually - will last the normal hibiscus gardener many, many years. Avid has a strong odor, so is best used outdoors, but another good mite killer named Floramite has almost no odor and is also available online. Still expensive, though.

Chris, you have likely discovered for yourself what we have been warning about for years - applications of imidacloprid are almost always followed by an increase in mites due to the stimulation of egg laying by mites exposed to imidacloprid. If there are no mites present it is not a problem, but in the house or greenhouse it can cause the population of mites to increase quickly to problem levels. Jordan is killing the mites simultaneously with applying imidacloprid which is also in the Bayer-3-in-1. Since it protects against whiteflies and aphids and suppresses thrips and mealybugs it is a good a useful pesticide as long as mites are controlled at the same time it is being used.

Charlie
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helixturnhelix
Seattle, WA

Posts: 1632



« Reply #24 on: January 09, 2010, 09:38:10 AM »

OH no!  I didnt realize that!  I am hoping my warm water spraying will work!  crossing fingers...
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Darkhorse

Posts: 841



« Reply #25 on: January 10, 2010, 10:28:46 PM »

Oh Chris good luck... attack that problem as fiercely as you can right from the beginning so it doesn't get out of hand!
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"They who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who dream only by night."  -Edgar Allan Poe
Nievesgirl

Posts: 927


« Reply #26 on: January 11, 2010, 10:51:28 AM »

Jordan


I still have spidermites and my method of running the tub water over the leaves is working ! I also spray hort oil every other week. I have stopped because I thought they where gone but they came back so this time I cam going to do this longer. The plants I have at work I did not do the tub washes so not they have a lot of mites I am going to bring them home and give them a bath ( cindy's method ) then start my method up again. I might have to take them home for a while since I have no tub at work lol
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~Kerry~
Darkhorse

Posts: 841



« Reply #27 on: January 11, 2010, 07:08:03 PM »

Yeah Kerry those mites are really persistent.  I thought mine were gone too a couple of times and they came back.  The good news is that I was checking for them on all the plants almost daily so when I noticed them coming back it was just a few.

Good luck!
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"They who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who dream only by night."  -Edgar Allan Poe
Nievesgirl

Posts: 927


« Reply #28 on: February 11, 2010, 10:14:57 PM »

I found a way to get avid Jordan lol  Tongue
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~Kerry~
Charlie
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Posts: 2869



« Reply #29 on: February 12, 2010, 08:16:46 AM »

Some online sources for roses and african violets sell Avid in pints instead of the standard quarts available to commercial growers. Not sure how they avoid the regulations but I'm guessing they are located in states that do not regulate the way California and a lot of other states do. Avid is still expensive, but it is used in small amounts like 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of spray and a bottle lasts most people a very long time. It is highly effective, but has a strong odor and must be sprayed outdoors and unless someone is into risky behavior gloves, long sleeves, and a respirator intended for "organic vapors" should be used.

If reasonable measures are taken to avoid exposure it is not dangerous but I just wanted to caution anyone who gets and uses commercial type pesticides that they really need to go all the way and get good gloves and a respirator while they are at it. You can also buy Tyvek hooded coveralls to slip over your clothes and head while spraying. I use these and feel they give me close to 100 percent protection from spray drift and my respirator keeps me from breathing any pesticide. Don't forget, if you can smell it, some of the chemical is getting into you.

Charlie
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