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Author Topic: Do you Grow Hibiscus in the House too?  (Read 3947 times)
Cindy
Cindy Black, Webmaster, Customer Service
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« on: November 28, 2008, 08:31:19 AM »

Growing hibiscus as houseplants is really important to me. I'm a mountain girl from the cold north, and have always had to have my gardens inside my house. Now that I'm living in warm San Diego, I have a beautiful hibiscus garden outside, but I still can't live in an empty, non-green, non-flowering house! So now I have hibiscus both inside and outside.   

I'm still learning and always improving my indoor hibiscus growing techniques. So if you grow hibiscus inside, come join me and let's pool our information, share pictures, and help each other. Ask questions, give answers, make suggestions, show off pictures, cry over lost hibiscus, and come join this discussion! All indoor hibiscus lovers are welcome!!!!!!!!! Cheesy

Cindy
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Cindy
Southern California
nina

Posts: 134


« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2009, 08:58:24 AM »

HI, Cindy, and others,

From time to time I put some plants in my living room, in front of the south window. They very quickly get spider mites. When I spray them  with water several times a day, or shower them a few times a week,  I can control the infection, but all in all, spider mites are such a nuisance in house conditions, because both regular spraying and showering are so tiring.
I have found out that Ross Estey is rather good in resisting spider mites, so this is the only one I have in the house now. I plan to put a few more in a week, to make them bloom earlier in spring. Since I suppose I will have spiders invasion very soon, a few questions:

- when I spray with acaricide, is it enough to spray the up side of the leaves, or one should spray the down side, too?
- is neem oil efficient against spider mites?
- any other known "domestic" and non toxic for humans substance against spider mites?
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Cindy
Cindy Black, Webmaster, Customer Service
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« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2009, 02:50:44 PM »

Hi Nina,

Spider mites are the one bug that love living in the house, and I agree that they are a real pain. I've found several ways to treat them, each has pros and cons:

DROWNING SPIDER MITES:
- Lay all your plants on their sides, pots and all, in a bathtub.
- Fill the tub with water that is 110 degrees F (43 C). Be careful that it does not go above that temperature though!
- Fill the tub until all the plants are covered, and weight the plants down with a towel or oven rack if you need to to make sure all parts of all plants are submerged in the water.
- Leave the plants in the water for 10 minutes. Set a timer so you don't forget them!  I once left mine in too long and it damaged the plants badly!
- Drain out the water and stand the plants up in the tub until the excess water drains out of the pots.

This is my favorite treatment because I only have to do it ONCE to kill all spider mites and their eggs. It kills every kind of spider mite, even the microscopic ones that can hide in cracks in the bark. BUT you do have to be careful. If the water is too hot or you leave the plants too long, you can damage the plant rather badly.

WASHING OFF SPIDER MITES:
An alternative method is to wash your plants in a shower or under a faucet or hose. But this method will not kill eggs. You will have to repeat it for 3-4 egg cycles (every 5-7 days) to get rid of all the spider mites. The trick is to wash every single millimeter of the plant in a strong stream of water - the top and bottom of every single leaf, branch, stem, and twig.

If you only have a few hibiscus, this method is fine, even though it's more time consuming. But if, like me, you have a house full of hibiscus, it's way too time-consuming.

TREATING SPIDER MITES WITH SPRAYS
Another alternative method is to treat with either a Miticide (like Bayer 3-in-1) or with Horticultural Oil. Both treatments work equally well, in my opinion, and I sometimes use both, alternating one one week and the other the next week.

- Just like the washing method, spraying only kills adult spider mites. It doesn't kill eggs. So you have to repeat it every 5-7 days for 3 or 4 egg-hatching cycles to make sure you get every spider mite.
- The trick with spraying, just like washing, is to spray every millimeter of the plant: tops and bottoms of every single leaf, stem, branch, and twig, as well as the surface of the pot and soil. It takes time to spray this carefully, but you may as well not bother spraying at all if you don't do it this carefully.

One other note - with spider mites, prevention helps a lot. If I bathe every plant I bring into the house BEFORE I put it near my other plants, I save myself a lot of spider mite treatment later. It's hard to make myself follow that rule religiously, but when I do, my plants stay a lot healthier and happier.

These are all the tricks I know so far!  If I come up with any new ones, I'll post them here!

Cindy

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Cindy
Southern California
Charlie
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« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2009, 04:03:03 PM »

Nina wrote:

- when I spray with acaricide, is it enough to spray the up side of the leaves, or one should spray the down side, too?
- is neem oil efficient against spider mites?
- any other known "domestic" and non toxic for humans substance against spider mites?

Hi Nina,

Some miticides claim to be "translaminar" which just means that the pesticide soaks into the leaf and remains active for a couple of weeks. Some take that to mean you can spray the top of the leaf only but it really doesn't work that well. For spider mite control spray everything - top and bottom of leaves, stems, even the surface of the soil.

After much experimenting I concluded that spraying the plants you are going to bring in 3 times in about 10 days before bringing them in works best. Even so...sooner or later you will have to do it again or quickly react to any sign of new mites with spot spraying. Starting with plants as clean as possible does really help.

Neem oil, like all light weight oils, smothers insects, including mites. Neem also has some biochemical activity that might help some with mites especially in the young stages. The Universities here highly recommend horticultural oil sprays for dealing with mites since they are effective and non-toxic. For me they work ok but there is no residual activity and mites return quicker than when using good miticides.

Other non-toxic treatments were covered by Cindy in a previous post. She gives the entire plant a warm water soaking that is very effective at removing mites.  The problem with mites is that they do not eat the plant sap but instead suck the chlorophyl out of plant leaves. So far no one has found a way to make the chlorophyl toxic to the mites the way we can toxify the plant sap with systemic insecticides. All that is left is to wash them off, drown them, or smother them with oil. Or you could try beneficial mites that eat spider mites. I have not tried that but these creatures are available if you want to give it a go!

Let us know how the winter goes and how you treated against mites. Thanks!

Charlie
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nina

Posts: 134


« Reply #4 on: February 06, 2009, 03:35:18 AM »

Hi, Cindy and Charly,

Thanks a lot for your reply. I thought since they suck, maybe the spraying of only the up would be enough...but unfortunately, it is not.

I will surely try drawning. I have already tried that, not with hibiscus but with a badly affected budlea, but it was totally inefficient. I did it in cold water. I will now try it with a 43C water, and see.

Once, I had an interesting experience. I packed a few plants for a friend, and closed the parcel, in the middle of the day. Some time after, I realized that mites are coming out of the parcel, in big quantities, obviously leaving the plant because of the sudden and unexpected darkness.  But of course, that "dark treatment" could not do with the eggs.

Waiting for the systemic miticide!
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Charlie
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« Reply #5 on: February 06, 2009, 06:42:59 AM »

Cindy reminds me that the hot water dunk should only last for 10 minutes and not be hotter than recommended. Longer or hotter water soaks can cause a lot of defoliation of the current leaves!  She learned that one not long ago  Angry 

If that were to happen the plants don't die, they start leafing out again right away minus the mites so it's not too terrible.
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Pachrian

Posts: 266


Orange County, CA


« Reply #6 on: March 24, 2010, 08:45:09 AM »

Cindy and Charlie, I have a question about the 10 minute rule, because I'm the kind who will be standing there with a stopwatch  Wink

Do you start timing when the last bit of the plant is submerged? Depending on the size of your tub and plant that means that the underside may be in hot water for quite a while longer.

I suppose I could fill the tub first, which makes it easier to ensure the temperature is correct. Not sure if you know of a reason not to do it this way around?
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~Uli
Charlie
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« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2010, 12:23:20 PM »

Cindy's not here now but I will tell her to check the forum and give you her reply since this is her technique. I do believe that she has changed it to cooler water and a longer time now and the time is not that important at the cooler temperature. Better let her explain what she's been doing though.

Charlie
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Pachrian

Posts: 266


Orange County, CA


« Reply #8 on: March 24, 2010, 02:00:09 PM »

Thank you! It'll be great hearing from her Smiley
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~Uli
Cindy
Cindy Black, Webmaster, Customer Service
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« Reply #9 on: March 25, 2010, 07:38:48 PM »

Hi Pachrian,

That's actually a good question, and one of the reasons I switched to using cooler water for longer time.

If you use the hotter water and 10 minutes, I tried to get around that problem by putting all the plants in the tub before starting the water, and running the water warm, then heating it up to the right temp when it was almost full. That way the plants didn't have the hot water until I was ready to start the timer.

The nice thing about using bathwater temps is that I can walk away from it, and it doesn't matter if the plants stay in the tub for 45, 55, or 65 minutes. I can go get some other job done, then come back and they'll all be fine.

One other thing about the hot method is that if you get the water just a few degrees too hot or the plants are in there a few minutes too long, you can lose both buds and leaves. I've never killed a plant with the hot water, but I did once lose all the leaves on a plant (when I forgot about it and left it in the hot water for 45 minutes or so!). I once left a plant in the cooler bathwater temp for 90 minutes, and I didn't lose a single leaf, and only lost 1 bud out of 4 or 5. So the cooler bathwater temp seems much safer to me.

I hope this helps!
Cindy

PS I'm finding that my plants need baths twice a year to stay all clean and sparkly and bug free.
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Cindy
Southern California
helixturnhelix
Seattle, WA

Posts: 1632



« Reply #10 on: March 27, 2010, 09:38:28 PM »

I also have noticed that misting once a week really seems to keep the bugs away as well Smiley
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Charlie
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« Reply #11 on: March 28, 2010, 02:57:12 PM »

Are you still using hot water from the tap, Chris?

Charlie
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Nievesgirl

Posts: 927


« Reply #12 on: March 29, 2010, 09:30:36 AM »

I am still using my new shower head and it has 8 settings , so I put it on the hardest setting and blast away lol !

So far I have not seen any mites yet, I found one last batch of eggs on a seedling ( hiding i dont use the blaster on the smaller ones but now I will)
So far this is easier for me than the bathes because I have too many plants lol. But when I did use the bath Cindy is spot on. I used cooler water and left them in there for 60 mins and no leaf drop or buds. The plants looked very clean and happy after the bath.
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~Kerry~
helixturnhelix
Seattle, WA

Posts: 1632



« Reply #13 on: March 29, 2010, 03:50:43 PM »

Yup Charlie,

Hottest my tap gets and spray the entire plant.  No spider mites since I started doing it Smiley
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Nievesgirl

Posts: 927


« Reply #14 on: March 29, 2010, 05:04:34 PM »

I wonder what would happen if i up the temps with my shower head ? Undecided
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~Kerry~
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